Central India- Tales These Stones Tell

Central India - the melting pot of Indian history.
 The stones at Jhansi, Orchha, Khajuraho and  Gwalior all have a story to tell. So many stories in fact, spanning centuries, tales of love, religion and of course war. There are monuments to each of these fundamental human passions at these places. It is nice to see that the monuments are very organised, clean and well maintained, a pleasure to visit. There is much written about these places hence this is not a tourist guide or travelogue, just a peep into history through my lens.

Jhansi Fort
My travels began at Jhansi Fort. It is redolent of history, of course the famous Lakshmibai, Rani of Jhansi fought for her rights here. Immortalised in the poem:
 "Bundeley Harbolon key munh hamney suni kahani thi,
Khoob ladi mardani woh to Jhansi wali Rani thi."
These walls were witness to to so much valour, defiance and grief, if only they could talk.

War and Religion
Warriors are religious and in almost every fort anywhere in the world one finds a place of worship.  Here a temple is seen through the crenellation of the fort wall. Forts were self contained units often encompassing the entire city at that time, and Jhansi is no exception. Such city forts had palaces, bazaars, residences of important people, royal stores and of course places of worship. One such temple is seen through the crenellations of the fort walls.

Stairs to the Gun Emplacements
The history of Jhansi has been colourful and almost the entirely centred around the fort.  The construction has been altered through the ages keeping pace with advances in armaments and tactics.  It is curious to see machine gun emplacements in the walls and since machine guns are a late 18th Century invention, these couldn't have been made during the First War of Independance of 1857 (or Mutiny, depending which side one is on) as the guide explained.  At some period, possibly between the two World wars, this must have been a prison hence the machine guns.  I have not seen machine gun emplacements at any of the other Indian forts I have visited.

Orchha
Palaces, temples and Royal Chattris (mausoleums) abound in this jewel on the banks of the Betwa river, about 15 km from Jhansi. Created by the Bundela kings, subsequent rulers added to the grandeur as indicated by the varied architectural styles. The history of these sites and the origins of the people who ruled at various times is evident in the style of the buildings. 

Royal Chhatris by the Betwa River
A striking feature of Orchha are the Royal Chhatris by the banks of the Betwa.  Made in very different shapes and sizes, they were built as memorials to royalty cremated here through the ages. It is worth crossing the river before sunrise and watch the early morning rays illuminate the Royal Chhatris across the Betwa. 

Bathing on the Ghats
This ghat remains holy and at sunrise many people come down to the ghats by the Chhatris to bathe. If only I could wash my sins off so easily!! There are convenient ghats made along the river bank here separately for men and women.  However gradually many of the ancient ghats have been taken over by the ubiquitous resorts built by the river. Considering the pressure of population coming to worship here, the place is remarkably clean.

Indian Vulture
The monuments at Orchha are home to a large flock of Indian Vulture, a majestic and huge bird which one seldom gets to see this close. There is an active protection program for these birds which breed here unhindered. Sign boards in Hindi and English outline the program. I wonder how the interaction of caustic droppings from endangered birds on centuries old fragile stone carvings is going to pan out? A present symbiosis of the old and the endangered may result in a future confrontation?

Nesting
The vultures were nesting when I was there, making large nests inside the old palaces and chhatris. The birds also seem to have perfected the art of sitting on an acutely slanted roof.  Here is a bird carrying twigs to its nest in the monuments.  The huge, over six foot, wing span is visible clearly.

Lakshman Temple at Khajuraho
Enough and more has been written about the famous temples at Khajuraho. The area of the main site is relatively small, and depending on how long one takes at various locations, it should take about two to two and a half hours to see the entire group.  My only two observations are, firstly the "erotic" sculptures are few and in a setting of social requirement of the time. There is nothing lewd nor are they as prolific as the media and pamphlets would have us believe.  And......

...I was speechless at the proportion, detail and scale of the temples. The ancient stone craftsmen were consummate, using mathematical proportion and size to achieve eye-catching grandeur. The detailed carving is always at visible distance, after that repetitive pattern; both of these harmonise into a pleasing whole.  The detail is incredible, as is the number of centuries that these have stood. Truly a heavenly spectacle.

Man Mandir or Man Singh Palace
This is the citadel of the main fort at Gwalior. The fort changed hands and purposes through the centuries, this is reflected in the eclectic architecture and sprawl of the walls. At various times it has resonated to the sounds of battle at the fort walls; a centre for performing arts, the Gwalior gharana  is one of the oldest Khyal Gharanas and flourished under the patronage of Akbar and his  favorite singers including the famous Miyan Tansen ;  a palace,  and the agonised groans of the political prisoners of a grim prison. The sound and light show is very well done and explains the history of the fort through the ages.  

Gurdwara Data Bandi Chorh Sahib
Guru Hargobind was a prisoner in this fort and legend has it that on his release he obtained the freedom of 52 other prisoners with him. This Gurudwara and many other monuments exist within the fort walls. Some of the temples like Teli ka Mandir and Sahas-Bahu have exquisite stone carvings and command an imposing view of the city around. Very large and extensive Jain rock carvings line the route to the fort.  Part of the fort is occupied by the Scindia School.

The Moon rises above Orchha
The moon and the sun have risen and set many times over this crossroads of Indian history, ancient Rajput kings, Marathas, Mughals and the British have all struggled for dominance briefly, leaving their marks on the pages of history.  These stones have seen in turn war and peace, hardship and prosperity, music and anguished groans.
If only they could tell us what they saw.

A Hard Day's Night

Mumbai, a city that actually never sleeps. It is constantly humming with the hectic economic activity that goes on almost without let up, everyone is earning a living. Every inch of the pavement is a market, suburban trains, big shops and small shops, houses in tiny lanes, people working all day and then again all night; all this and more constitute the hive that is Mumbai. Despite the swirling activity, people are kind, considerate and allowing,  they have time for you. In this maelstrom, there are tiny eddies of calm and solitude and privacy. in a three night photography workshop I gained a tiny peep into a small part of the hard lives of these lovely people.  
 The Beatles immortalise this in their eponymous song which says it all.

"It's been a hard day's night, and I'd been working like a dog
It's been a hard day's night, I should be sleeping like a log"

Lady Selling Fish
Mumbai is a city of commerce, big business houses and street retail, all busily humming to earn a living. Here at Chapel Street in Bandra a lady sells freshly caught fish to what appear to be regular customers.  Her wares are sold in less than an hour.

Yes Young Ladies how can I help you?
These young girls find safety in numbers I guess, late night in Bandra Market street, they are the customers in a multi-specialty shop.

Counting his money
It has been a good day possibly, or is he wondering if he has enough to pay impending bills, buy more fruit for the morrow? The busy street is bustling late into the night.

Waiting for a customer?
With a variety of vegetables on sale, this man tends his stall waiting for the next customer. sometimes business is fast and furious and sometimes slow.  He looks tired or is that worry?  It's obviously been a long day.

Social meet as well?
It may be business, but these ladies on a late night shopping spree, gather around the fruit seller to exchange light hearted gossip. 

Preparing for the morrow
A lady selling flowers in Worli Village, prepares for the next day, it is in the build up to and days preceding festivals, Ganpati in this case, that she has the most business. 

Desi Soup anybody?
Sticking posters and preparing hoardings for the start of the Ganpati festival, this expert has a bespoke gum bottle that he can hold in his teeth. The night preceding the start of the ten days of Ganpati is very busy

Late night shopper returns
Many people, like this lady, do their essential daily shopping after a hard day at work.  Her house is amid tiny lanes, often only accessible on foot. Proximity living also fosters greater friendships and I saw many people of an area, sitting out and chatting late into the night.

Catching the late night air
This elderly couple, very graciously allowed me to photograph them. They were sitting in companionable silence by the sidewalk in a tiny and crowded street.  It was possibly cooler here than in their house.

Hope and despair?
Seafarers and fishermen are amongst the most religious and superstitious people mainly due to vagaries of the sea on which their livelihood depends. here next to a Crucifix in Worli Village ladies and girls sit late at night, dreaming of what is to be, or just catching a cool breeze before bed?

Bustling City
early morning, by the first train into town, traders ferry their wares in.  It is a long ride and some of them catch up on sleep before reaching their destination. It is crowded and hectic and seldom are the trains empty.

Solitude
Notwithstanding the "standing room only" pace of the city, this couple finds an oasis of calm and privacy by the ocean wall.

South Africa - Vignettes of the Cape in Spring

South Africa is a multi-hued country, colourful in every sense of the word, it is beautiful everywhere and in all seasons, but my favourite is spring in the Cape. Flowers bursting in a riot of colour with dainty birds sipping nectar. These pictures are a glimpse of the views that you have to look for.

The protea
The king protea is the national flower of South Africa and at this time of the year it is blooming everywhere, huge and colourful.  There are many varieties of protea, some so different in shape and size, however all are colourful and pretty.

Flowers Flowers Everywhere
Nothing strikes you so much as the profusion of flowers and nowhere more than at the West Coast National Park. A part of this park, Postberg, is open for two months only, August - September during which it is a breathtaking palette of colour.  We went on the last few days and only the yellow remained, but  literally in carpets. 

Waves lash the shore
The WCNP offers some spectacular seascapes too, raw rocky beaches being lashed by the violent Atlantic and the placid Langebaan Lagoon, with its varied palette of blues.  There is an island here which is the refuge of thousands of seals and with a pair of binoculars one can see them.  The violence of the Atlantic made the west coast the terror of sailors in the days of sail and north of here lies the dreaded Skeleton Coast of yore.

Wine labelled with the National flower
A little distance out of Cape Town is the Paarl Valley, one of the premier wine growing areas of  famous wines of South Africa. In this area, there are towns like Franschhoek, Paarl, Stellenbosch, all surrounded by vineyards. there is a distinct French flavour to many of these areas, perhaps that's how the wine industry took off.

Kirstenbosch with Castle Rock standing sentinel
A botanical garden established by Cecil John Rhodes on the apron of Table Mountain, is the repository of much South African flora and some exotics as well. Beautifully laid out and colourful in spring, it offers a tranquil but educative walk amidst flowers and birds of various hues. Castle Rock is a part of the Table Mountain massif.

Mandela's Gold
In a tribute to the iconic Nelson Mandela, this golden coloured Bird of Paradise is carefully bred at Kirstenbosch.  The more common flower too grows in profusion here.

Sipping Nectar
A brilliantly coloured sunbird sips nectar from a variety of protea at Kirstenbosch.  There are many birds at Kirstenbosch, some are semi-tame like species of guinea fowl, ducks, geese and spur fowl.  Then there are birds like these, flitting among the bushes and enjoying the flowers.  A certain tree has been home to generations of spotted eagle owl, and not to disappoint we saw the mother sitting over her brood.

A craftsman's hands
Stone carving is a popular handicraft, various stones, particularly this variety of grey stone is carved then oiled for a lovely play on shades of black and gray. Subjects range from the traditional to the modern. Handicrafts in the Cape, are very meticulously wrought with great attention to detail and finish. 

Life in Stone
Artisans chisel the stone rapidly, but surely, a slip or mistake can ruin a large block.Statues of animals, people and activities; statues in a variety of stone; statues of realistic figures and abstracts; there is a wide variety here.  They offer to ship large pieces to one's home country.  Mostly the work has meticulous attention to detail and finely finished.

A Loving Couple
On our way to the Cape of Good Hope we stopped at Red Rock Tribal area which has a delightful restaurant run by this very friendly couple.  The small and very meticulously laid out dining area is made of wood with vines on the outside walls; very redolent of old residences.The pastries, Coffee and tea were absolutely delicious.

Friendly....
One of the ladies attending to us in the Red Rock Tribal area was this pretty girl. She had her hair tediously knotted into tiny knots and exactly arranged.  She graciously allowed me to take pictures, chatting away all the while. The most of the ladies have interesting hair arrangements.

Franschhoek Motor Museum
Located between Paarl and Franschhoek, the FMM has an eclectic mix of cars.  Ranging from a Model T Ford and Lorraine Dietrich from 1911 to modern Ferrari's; tourers, sportsters, formula 1, shooting brakes all make for a breathtaking range of cars.  Worth a visit by any car buff, by anybody for that matter.

The iconic Table Mountain
the best place to see the breath-taking views of Cape Town is from Table Mountain. It has a cable car to go up, but for the intrepid there are many routes to climb up on foot. These are interesting trails that allow one to see the different views and flora as one climbs.  There are climbs for the beginner and for the technical expert.  However none of the trails are a casual walk so be prepared with adequate water (at least two litres per person on a hot day); and a jacket for the considerable change in temperature from a warm bottom (pun intended) to a windy and cold top. Please see my earlier blog on  walking up Table Mountain

Cable car to the top...
For the easy going or the not-so-fit or for those in a hurry there is a cable car to the top. The hitch is that the Mountain creates its own weather system which is often uncongenial to go up in.  Strong winds, poor visibility (the 'tablecloth' of cloud) and bitter cold can prevent one from going up and enjoying the views. On sunny days the wait for a ride in the cable car can be upto two hours, book online to half the wait time. Timing and planning is critical for Table Mountain.

On top...
 Once at the top one is rewarded with beautiful views and seacapes, there are palettes of blue punctuated with cotton fluff white in the water and the sky. Take an easy walk to the highest point on the Mountain, Maclears Beacon.

The Lighthouse atop Cape Point
Cape Point is the south west most point of the continent, a promontory with a well established tourist facility with views all around.  The seascapes are vast and ever changing in shades of blue, from a pale sky-blue to the deep-blue bruises of deep water. The weather is ever variable and white wisps sailing through a pristinely blue sky can change suddenly to glowering clouds and rain, so be prepared. The drive to Cape point is through a National Park and along the way one can see baboons, ostrich and varieties of antelope.

The art of Dylan Lewis
One of the more well known sculptors of South Africa, his work on display is mainly African animals and surrealistic human figures portraying "the animal within". His work is displayed at a sculpture garden in Stellenbosch where he has placed pieces amidst natural surroundings, worth a visit to walk the large estate. His animals are very accurately represented, with a lot of fluidity and action.

Protea buds
South Africa is spectacular, scenic, uncertain weather, colourful flowers and birds; and the Cape more than most places.  If one likes history, scenic panoramas, seascapes, flora and fauna; the Cape is for you.  Doing it as a tourist with a been there and done it agenda is not the best way, perhaps long walks and drives to soak in the scenery, watch the wondrous flora and fauna and soak in the turbulent and often violent history of the land.

Off the beaten path at Hogenakkal Falls

Hogenakkal Falls
About180 km from Bangalore, the falls are a attractive tourist draw. Though the falls are not spectacular in themselves,  they have spawned an entire tourist industry around.  Of course as we are always wont to believe, the waters are holy, hence a dip in the falls is mandatory to cleanse one of accumulated sin.  Though a sceptic like me prefers sin to disease that the garbage in the water is likely to spread. The waters of the Cauvery, flow through two sets of falls here, a smaller one close to the touristy places and this gorge a little way in.

The Upper Falls
These falls are closer to Hogenakkal, here there is a complete tourist/religious township. The railing on the right is where religious are to wash off their sins.  Are those sins I see festooned on the railings?

The Coracle
This is the main form of water transport here.  A frame of split bamboo/cane covered by blue plastic and coated in black tar. Steered by a single oar it is also the only means of propulsion. Our boatman, very deftly rowed and steered up current, no mean feat. The coracle, about 7 feet in diameter, can carry 8 or 10 people; we went in this one to the lower falls in the gorge. 

Cooking al-fresco
Old coracles are re-purposed by using them as roofs of huts and outdoor cooking shelters.  Apart from the myriad tourist industries that such places have over here the Falls have engendered coracle boatmen, massage-men, fisher folk and fruit sellers.   Here a group of men and women cook a quick lunch while others carry on with the business of the day.

Fish Seller
There is a bustling fish market here,the speciality being fish fried in a masala unique to this place. Many people buy, the often live, fish and have it cleaned and marinated to take home.  From the variety and size of fish, it is obvious that the fish is not all from this river and much of it comes from elsewhere. The fact that the fish are fresh is evident from the many live fish,like the one here held by the seller.

Fried Fish
Some people buy fresh fish and take it home, and some like eating it hot and fried here itself. A couple doing brisk business selling various varieties of fresh fried fish.  Some of the fish are bony and some are not, the bony fish appear to be tastier but more difficult to eat.

Ladies Selling Cut Fruit and Pickled Mangoes
 All business activity is quite a social affair, as we see from the two friends here running a chat while selling cut fruit. Markets in India are actually very social affairs, where selling, bargaining and buying are part of an elaborate ritual  

Cut Fruit by the Glass A brisk business here, cut seasonal fruit are sold by the glass.Here is  a closer view of the cut fruit, pineapples, watermelons and mangoes. The mangoes appear to be pickled in a manner that they can be eaten as fruit rather than a condiment. 

Water pots by the village tap
Though a common sight, over here the traditional brass  has given way to bright coloured plastic as seen by these neon coloured pots by the village tap.

Aayenaar
These Aayenaars are said to be the  the guardians of the village, in some villages they are simple but in many, such as the one in Pennagaram here, they are huge, colourful and complex.  At one end of a cement platform, the entire Aayenaar has, for good measure a representative of many forces. Apart from the stern and martial deity in the centre, there are effigies of policemen, horses, a tribal male and not mistaking the graphic anatomy, a tribal female.

Rajarajeshwar  Temple
A huge edifice in Bangalore, the colourful temple towers over much of the surrounding trees and houses.  As with all temples here, it has elaborate and colourful  figures adorning the walls, very painstakingly made.