Naina Peak and Brahmasthali -The Top of Kumaon

“Clouds come floating into my life, no longer to carry rain or usher storm, but to add color to my sunset sky.” ― Rabindranath Tagore
The sun sets below the rain washed hills where I was staying, and though not very high, the views are spectacular.  I could clearly see the haze at the level of the plains and the clear air here.

When I went  to Pangoot in April 2019 , the experience was a kaleidoscope of birds,  animals, forests, rain (downpours most of the time), years of history and walking, lots of walking.  Walking in these forests is a true communion with nature.  This is Kumaon with the Himalayas on one side and Corbett tiger reserve on the other. Little did I realise that two years later all I would have are lovely memories and pictures.

Chandan Singh ka dhaba has the most delectable meat-chawal (rice).
I took two trains from Mumbai to Lalkuan, and from there a taxi to Pangoot. On the two hour drive I had a very chatty taxi driver, and when I told him that I wanted to eat local food, he got me here, short of Nainital. Chandan Singh only serves meat-chawal which is cooked overnight on a wood fire and sold out by 2 or 3 pm.

Blood red Rhododendron flowers were in bloom everywhere
Rhododendron trees were scarlet with blooms, on every walk I and every way I turned, there were Rhododendrons.  The flower is fat and juicy, it looks beautiful when it is fresh and blooming, but quickly droops and decays on the ground. The juice of the flower is bottled and sold, being the specific for various ailments.

Atop Naina Peak
It rained almost everyday, most times I was climbing in the rain, but as I was equipped for this, I carried spare inner clothing and socks in my rucksack.  When climbing none of the  breathable clothes I own kept me dry, sweat from the inside and rainwater from the outside drenched me completely. In Indian conditions, maybe it is better to take something that dries fast rather than keeps one dry, or is breathable. A poncho kept me dry for a longer while, but in a strong breeze it can flap a bit.

The second Highest peak.
Naina Peak overlooks Nainital, it is very touristy spot, but owing to the rain, there were  no tourists at the top.  Here there is a forest department radio repeater station manned by two forest guards.  One of them took pity on this wet walker and fed me the ubiquitous Maggi noodles and gave me sugar rich tea.  Just what the doctor ordered to get my energy levels up. 

Blue-winged Siva
Though I was there more for the forest walking, Pangoot and Sattal are a birders paradise. Every bird tour company, or birder makes it here at some time.  Though it was warm and so they said at many places bird sightings were limited, there were other places where there were birds in every tree and bush. Walking in these nearly pristine forests is so refreshing, I was doing 16-17 kms a day.

Verditer Flycatcher has a bath
Sattal has myriad lakes (Sat-tal  means seven lakes), connected by water-channels.  At one little stream, the forest department has put up the 'studio'.  This consists of a shallow flowing stream, with some twigs put up for the birds to perch on so that birders and photographers can sit close to the action. At sunrise and sunset there is a parade of birds at this place as they come to drink water and bathe.

A Langur wonders what to do next....
  Though a birders haven, there are many other species too. Apart from the birds, I saw a rare sighting of the Serow, troops of langurs feeding, a chorus of cicadas switching their rattle on and off to the directions of an ethereal conductor. The forests have something for everyone.

Blue-throated Flycatcher
The trip to Sattal is very interesting, first there is Peter Smetacek, many call him the butterfly man, he has arguably one of the largest butterfly and moth collections in the country. The talk he gives is very interesting, explaining various snippets of fascinating butterfly and moth lives. His butterfly collection is on display, but he says that he has a larger moth collection which he keeps in envelopes as moth colours are not stable in sunlight.

A rain spattered yellow lemon
There are other lovely walks in Sattal along a river as there are many birds along the water, I saw a group of birders painstakingly photograph a Spotted Forktail. Along the river-bank I saw the wizard-looking Koel, Great Barbet and of course the ubiquitous Bulbul.  though it rained for a while when I was there, at the heaviest downpour I just took shelter in a milk chilling plant.  There are many houses along the river bed and most have huge lemons like this one.

Atop Brahmasthali, one of the highest points near Pangoot
One early morning I was driven to Cheer Point,  this is where one sees the Cheer Pheasant if one is lucky, I wasn't.  This is on a short route to Corbett Park from Nainital which passes the start for the Brahmasthali hike at the top of which one is rewarded with a darshan of a Brahma Temple. The views are beautiful from here, on one side I saw the foothills with the famous national park, on the other side were the Himalayan ranges.

Red-billed Leiothrix
This trip is of course a birders paradise, but the other fauna is also wonderful.  The jungles are a delight to walk in, I was soaking in the solitude, nature and history. Though there are many tourists in the area, luckily one does not see too many off the beaten track. I like the saying that if you think life is giving you lemons, enjoy the lemonade.