Forts - If These Stones Could Tell a Story

 

Forts evoke days of yore, proud sentinels of the land, looking in the eye of the enemy, hand to hand battles, chivalry and sieges. Forts could be small city states with fort palaces where the ruler could lock himself and his faithful in. Such fortress palaces extended many kilometres in diameter and encompassed within its walls the entire wherewithal to sustain life for months and even years. 

Koraigarh Fort complex was possibly built where function takes priority over form.  Just a tiny redoubt to protect a village or an outpost to collect taxes, such tiny functional forts dot the Indian landscape, looking out over the countryside.

Citadel of Tikone. The attacker could not reach citadel of a complex fort easily, he got to the very top of the fort,  if he did at all, after hard fought battles over a series of tactically placed obstacles.  He generally saw the citadel after crossing the Darwaza (door or gate ) of the fort, by this time he was quite spent in men and material.
 

Clouds come over the Sahyadris. Except for naval forts guarding harbours and river mouths, forts were almost always sited on a height so that they could imperiously survey the area around.  Clouds obscured vision, so a defender had to compromise between line of sight and altitude. 

Orchha Palace fort, reminiscent of glorious days gone by.  Forts were designed essentially for two purposes, the first being to dominate and defend territory or access to harbours. They also projected the might of a ruler, as the more ornate fort palace complex the mightier  the line of rulers. 

The grandeur of Gwalior Fort and Palace at sunrise. The second reason for making or extending forts and palaces were at times of famine when the ruler needed to disburse to the population the grain collected as taxes. Probably the original concept of giving food for doing work. These two reasons often overlapped so that battles across the country with accompanying famine gave us many forts.

The Bastion of the fort at Jhansi.  Being essentially defensive, forts were designed so that minimum soldiers could dominate far more vast armies or populations. These locations also served as sally ports for enhanced troops that the emperor may send to attack an invader. All features of a bastion were then oriented to these purposes. The steps, crenellations, embrasures, served to concentrate defending troops at points of decision.  Walls were so made that defenders could concentrate on sides where the attacker was maximum, effecting economy of defensive forces.

The steep approach Visapur Fort.  To space out an attacker, most approaches were narrow, up steep hills, the steps or path allowing for at most one or two men at a time. This forced piecemeal deployment of the attacker also enabled a defender to stop far greater numbers with the relatively few men available to him. 

The path up to the citadel of Tikone Fort.  By now the attacker would have been decimated by the outer walls and the layers of obstacles in his path.  The narrow and steep approach also meant that the attacker would have to use his hands for climbing and not for weapons. The degree of difficulty was increased by making the approach slippery with water and having high walls on either side manned by the defender.

A lone Monkey now sits sentinel on the mighty and extensive walls of Kumbhalgarh Fort.  The main gate of a fort was often at right angles to the path up, this was by devious design. Elephants or other gate-breaking devices could not charge the gate, having to turn at right angles meant slowing down and  reducing or negating the momentum of a charge.

The attacker of Tikone has the Bhuyari Darwaza to contend with.  The approach had rapid changes in light and dark for the attacker, this prevented his eyes from adjusting and disorientated him. Allowing the defenders on shelves in the dark to decapitate the attacker without being seen. 

Turret and walls of Jhansi Fort. The walls of a fort had crenellations, slits and turrets (bulges) to enable a fewer defenders to face a larger number of attackers. The slits were so designed that the defender would have a large field of fire (bow and arrow; later musket) while exposing himself the least.

A large weapon emplacement at Visapur. These weapon positions were funnel shaped, being wider towards the defender inside with a narrower slit visible to the attacker from the outside. The turrets allowed the defender to see the base of the fort walls on either side so that an enemy could not hide there. 

Water Cistern at Tikone.  In the days before gunpowder, it was nearly impossible to capture a fort by force of arms alone.  It was generally captured only by guile or treason, or by the attacker laying a siege, sometimes for years. To withstand a siege, the defender had to have adequate stocks of food and ammunition.

Reflection in a water cistern at Rajmachi.  The most important supply was water, as most forts were on hilltops, naturally occurring water was inadequate or non-existent. So almost without exception the defender made huge underground cisterns where rainwater was collected in the monsoon and stored for use in the dry months.

A large water storage facility at Tikone.  Water was (and is) needed for drinking, cooking and washing, sometimes for years. Besides the soldiers, often the local inhabitants of the area would withdraw into the walls to gain protection, so there was a very large need of water.  To cater to this copious need, huge water tanks were made above and below ground.  

Tuljadevi Mandir at Tikone.  Religion was (and is) very important to a soldier, after all he was being asked to lay down his life and there is no greater sacrifice.  Every fort has a temple which is dedicated to a ruling deity and many have more than one. In fact many forts are named after a deity. 

Another symbol of victory.  Battle was mystical and religious and most modern armies too have some form of worship to weapons and Gods of war. Shastr pooja (religious ceremonies pertaining to weapons) is an integral part of military life even today.   All parties to a conflict feel that God is on their side and the righteous will win, this belief has held true through the ages.

Weapons positions at Visapur.  Stones were precision cut, in most cases being held together by gravity or lime. Weapons slits were always tactically cut, never to accommodate a particular size of stone.   Depending on how long a fort had been in use and the time available, such places were austere or engraved and adorned. 

Stones in the wall of  Shreevardhan.  The line of the cut was so precise, that it each stone rests perfectly on the other. One wonders at the time taken to cut so finely such heavy stone blocks at  height with very restricted access. Most forts were made from stone quarried from where the fort stood.  These stones have withstood the centuries and structures made from them are still standing in places.

A tower at Gwalior Palace/Fort.  If the fort was meant to project power or had a palace within, embellishments were added to the more ornate carving in stone. Craftsmen would decorate the edifice with local or imported skills and materials.  In some places semi-precious stones or fine inlay work is evident where these have withstood the ravages of time and invaders through the centuries.

Tung Fort as seen from Tikone.  Communication means at that time were line of sight, smoke or reflections by day and fire by night. This was why many forts were within sight of each other, in many places one can see two or three other forts from one.

Langurs Frolic where soldiers once stood.  Fort walls are now decrepit, repaired in places and falling apart in others.  The fearsome crenellations of yore are now sadly overgrown with vegetation. Gunpowder and the industrial age gradually rendered fixed defences untenable, with these went forts. For a while some forts were re-purposed, as prisons, outposts or granaries, but now even these uses are no longer required.

Once proud walls look out over the country side.  Forts were once glorious but with time they have become irrelevant and mostly allowed to go to seed. In some places desultory repairs have been effected, but mostly these proud monuments to our military past are falling apart.  Tourists gawk, picnic and tragically litter what remains of this ancient military heritage. The tales of valour , heroism, treachery and daily life these stones  would tell if only they could talk.

Central India- Tales These Stones Tell

Central India - the melting pot of Indian history.
 The stones at Jhansi, Orchha, Khajuraho and  Gwalior all have a story to tell. So many stories in fact, spanning centuries, tales of love, religion and of course war. There are monuments to each of these fundamental human passions at these places. It is nice to see that the monuments are very organised, clean and well maintained, a pleasure to visit. There is much written about these places hence this is not a tourist guide or travelogue, just a peep into history through my lens.

Jhansi Fort
My travels began at Jhansi Fort. It is redolent of history, of course the famous Lakshmibai, Rani of Jhansi fought for her rights here. Immortalised in the poem:
 "Bundeley Harbolon key munh hamney suni kahani thi,
Khoob ladi mardani woh to Jhansi wali Rani thi."
These walls were witness to to so much valour, defiance and grief, if only they could talk.

War and Religion
Warriors are religious and in almost every fort anywhere in the world one finds a place of worship.  Here a temple is seen through the crenellation of the fort wall. Forts were self contained units often encompassing the entire city at that time, and Jhansi is no exception. Such city forts had palaces, bazaars, residences of important people, royal stores and of course places of worship. One such temple is seen through the crenellations of the fort walls.

Stairs to the Gun Emplacements
The history of Jhansi has been colourful and almost the entirely centred around the fort.  The construction has been altered through the ages keeping pace with advances in armaments and tactics.  It is curious to see machine gun emplacements in the walls and since machine guns are a late 18th Century invention, these couldn't have been made during the First War of Independance of 1857 (or Mutiny, depending which side one is on) as the guide explained.  At some period, possibly between the two World wars, this must have been a prison hence the machine guns.  I have not seen machine gun emplacements at any of the other Indian forts I have visited.

Orchha
Palaces, temples and Royal Chattris (mausoleums) abound in this jewel on the banks of the Betwa river, about 15 km from Jhansi. Created by the Bundela kings, subsequent rulers added to the grandeur as indicated by the varied architectural styles. The history of these sites and the origins of the people who ruled at various times is evident in the style of the buildings. 

Royal Chhatris by the Betwa River
A striking feature of Orchha are the Royal Chhatris by the banks of the Betwa.  Made in very different shapes and sizes, they were built as memorials to royalty cremated here through the ages. It is worth crossing the river before sunrise and watch the early morning rays illuminate the Royal Chhatris across the Betwa. 

Bathing on the Ghats
This ghat remains holy and at sunrise many people come down to the ghats by the Chhatris to bathe. If only I could wash my sins off so easily!! There are convenient ghats made along the river bank here separately for men and women.  However gradually many of the ancient ghats have been taken over by the ubiquitous resorts built by the river. Considering the pressure of population coming to worship here, the place is remarkably clean.

Indian Vulture
The monuments at Orchha are home to a large flock of Indian Vulture, a majestic and huge bird which one seldom gets to see this close. There is an active protection program for these birds which breed here unhindered. Sign boards in Hindi and English outline the program. I wonder how the interaction of caustic droppings from endangered birds on centuries old fragile stone carvings is going to pan out? A present symbiosis of the old and the endangered may result in a future confrontation?

Nesting
The vultures were nesting when I was there, making large nests inside the old palaces and chhatris. The birds also seem to have perfected the art of sitting on an acutely slanted roof.  Here is a bird carrying twigs to its nest in the monuments.  The huge, over six foot, wing span is visible clearly.

Lakshman Temple at Khajuraho
Enough and more has been written about the famous temples at Khajuraho. The area of the main site is relatively small, and depending on how long one takes at various locations, it should take about two to two and a half hours to see the entire group.  My only two observations are, firstly the "erotic" sculptures are few and in a setting of social requirement of the time. There is nothing lewd nor are they as prolific as the media and pamphlets would have us believe.  And......

...I was speechless at the proportion, detail and scale of the temples. The ancient stone craftsmen were consummate, using mathematical proportion and size to achieve eye-catching grandeur. The detailed carving is always at visible distance, after that repetitive pattern; both of these harmonise into a pleasing whole.  The detail is incredible, as is the number of centuries that these have stood. Truly a heavenly spectacle.

Man Mandir or Man Singh Palace
This is the citadel of the main fort at Gwalior. The fort changed hands and purposes through the centuries, this is reflected in the eclectic architecture and sprawl of the walls. At various times it has resonated to the sounds of battle at the fort walls; a centre for performing arts, the Gwalior gharana  is one of the oldest Khyal Gharanas and flourished under the patronage of Akbar and his  favorite singers including the famous Miyan Tansen ;  a palace,  and the agonised groans of the political prisoners of a grim prison. The sound and light show is very well done and explains the history of the fort through the ages.  

Gurdwara Data Bandi Chorh Sahib
Guru Hargobind was a prisoner in this fort and legend has it that on his release he obtained the freedom of 52 other prisoners with him. This Gurudwara and many other monuments exist within the fort walls. Some of the temples like Teli ka Mandir and Sahas-Bahu have exquisite stone carvings and command an imposing view of the city around. Very large and extensive Jain rock carvings line the route to the fort.  Part of the fort is occupied by the Scindia School.

The Moon rises above Orchha
The moon and the sun have risen and set many times over this crossroads of Indian history, ancient Rajput kings, Marathas, Mughals and the British have all struggled for dominance briefly, leaving their marks on the pages of history.  These stones have seen in turn war and peace, hardship and prosperity, music and anguished groans.
If only they could tell us what they saw.