Solitude - The Great Himalayan national Park and Tirthan.

Relatively Untouched
Getting away from the madding crowd seems nearly impossible in these crowded times. Most trails and treks are virtual highways with a line of 'trekkers' like marching ants going to and fro.  Thus when I find a spot of seclusion I truly savour it, these are getting more difficult to find.    In my constant efforts to get far from the madding crowd, in mid-March 2016 I did a week's trek to the Great Himalayan Park.

The upper reaches of the Tirthan Valley
The path to the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) still remain relatively untouched, possibly due to the fact that Manali nearby has a greater draw, also that reaching the Tirthan Valley is still only possible by State run buses or private transport. 

Gushaini - where the trek trail starts
An overnight bus journey (aah the convenience of a Volvo!) got me from Delhi to Aut, about 60 kilometres short of Manali.  From Aut it is an hour and a half by taxi to Gushaini, the place where the trail to the Himalayan National Park starts. On arrival I was greeted by unseasonal heavy rains and everything was wet.  It was cloudy with intermittent showers and bits of bright sun peeking out.

The greens of spring at Raju's Hut
At Gushaini I had made arrangements to stay at Raju's Hut, a homestay, one of the first in the area.  They offer warm hospitality and three meals in the package. 

Acclimatising in terraced fields
I spent the first day acclimatising, having ascended from sea level to1400 metres in 24 hours, acclimatising meant climbing the hill behind slowly, admiring the view and gently getting my breath under control. Walking up the mountain, I saw quaint houses, mostly large wooden structures surrounded by terraced fields and orchards.

The Temple in Bandal and the mountains of GNHP  

At the top of the hill I reached the temple in Village Bandal. the temple was locked and a local told me that it was open to and meant only for the benefactors who built it, I wonder?   Back before dark to a trout dinner and an early night.

My crew
On the first day I also made arrangements for a guide, cook and porter for the GNHP trek.  There are government rules regarding this and one cannot trek into the Park without a guide.  It's a good cause though, the cost is not much and it gives the local people an income. I engaged a guide, cook and porter, young boys all.  Distributing loads between Lal Chand, the cook and porter, and ensuring that we had adequate food and supplies, they would help me over the next three days.  

Lal Chand and I on the Trail to GNHP
My guide, Lal Chand, was a young boy, supremely fit, he could carry a load three times mine and prance light footed ahead while I trudged along behind him. Here he props me up so that I don't fall from exhaustion in front of the camera!!

A Shepherd and his flock on the the track to GNHP
It rained almost throughout the walk to the park and so it was not possible to use my camera most of the time. I took this picture during one of the rare pauses in the rain. The goats have long coarse hair which is used locally for warm clothes.  Leopard and bear are predatory on the goats, hence the huge local sheepdogs, mastiffs of a sort.

Gates of GNHP
 I took this picture on the way back, it was pouring on the way in.  The walk to the main gates of GHNP is about 12 km from Gushaini village, by the time I reached the gates it was raining a deluge and so Lal Chand and I had to take shelter in the forest hut nearby (seen in the background). We had to wait about two hours for the rain to reduce a bit, so we passed the time in heating some water for a Cuppa Noodles on a wood fire.

Rolla Camp at GNHP - 2050 metres
As soon as the rain abated we quickly walked to Rolla camp about 3 km away. There were beautiful sights along the way but the rain kept our heads down and cameras away. This was our destination for the night. I had intended to stay in a tent for the two nights I was there but it was so wet due to the rain, that I quickly managed to arrange to stay in one of the two forest huts here. After we set everything out to dry in the hut, the cook made dinner for me, dal, vegetables, rice and chappattis with some pickle was the fare. having done with dinner went to bed early, snug in my sleeping bag, as there was no electricity and I needed to conserve my torch batteries.

Icicles in the grass
It was cold that night, very cold, and by morning water in the grass had frozen. The temperature was about 4 degrees Celsius when I went out in the morning. There was no hot water at the 'Rolla Hilton', so I washed up in the crisp cold of the Tirthan River a few metres away, invigorating.

The view on the way to Shilt Hut

Next morning it dawned dry but very misty and since I had only that day to climb, after a breakfast of parathas, egg and pickle, Lal Chand and I set out for Shilt Hut, a shepherd's hut at about 3100m. This was my intended destination for the day and meant about four hours climb (as little as two hours for the very fit).  The Hut is set in a very pretty meadow from where one gets lovely views and photo ops of the snow clad mountains in front. I had been here in 2014, and on a bright and sunny day.

Monal tracks in the snow
But this time, due to the unseasonal rain, it had snowed very heavily over the last few days, this snow had turned to ice. The result was that from about 2500 metres onwards we were walking along a very slippery path of ice and wet mud. I had many birds sightings, the highlight being a Monal male, an absolutely gorgeous iridescent splash of colour in the trees some distance away.  A startled Bharal (mountain sheep) dashed past me so fast that I couldn't even get my camera up.

Snow Clad and Misty Mountains
The vegetation was mainly pine on the exposed hill sides, with the water courses having a lot of other vegetation. As one goes into the pine forests the bird life reduces. As the guide told me, pine trees restrict other vegetation  and therefore the food for birds is limited.  The beautiful view I had seen in 2014,  was  obscured by clouds this time.  However the clouds amongst the trees and mountains have their own allure.

Heating lunch at Durunga Thuch near Shilt
After slipping and sliding for the last hour, at about 2700 metres we decided to stop climbing for Shilt, it was disappointing as Shilt was about half an hour away.  I took the decision for two reasons, one it had become dangerously slippery and would be more so near the exposed top, and without specialised climbing gear. Secondly it was getting late and I didn't want to be on the slippery mountain side after dark. Valour deferred to discretion and I took a decision to turn back after lunch. Lal Chand and I had carried parathas which we had intended to eat at the hut, we heated these in a wood fire under a rock overhang.

Wooden Swirl
As we turned back a bit early, I had time on hand to photograph the joys of nearly untouched nature around, toadstools, dead trees, plants. By evening there were few birds and in the cold, almost no visible insects.

Waterfall at Rolla
Just above Rolla camp, about 500metres away, there is a beautiful waterfall. Here the path splits into three distinct tracks, going North East is the long trek into the higher mountains of the Park.  North is Shilt and beyond, whereas South is the climb to Khorli Pohi, the breeding area of the Monal and accessible only by special permission from the forest department. I decided to walk down the path for a kilometre and see this waterfall on the upper Tirthan River.  

Mossy Rock in a stream at GNHP
Regrettably the next day I had to return. The day was clear but cloudy, we had intermittent drizzle and sun on the way back. We had initially planned to take a longer, more scenic route back over a mountain, however Lal Chand told me that this would be very slippery due to wet mud, though I suspect it was more because he wanted to get back early to his village after leaving me at Gushaini.

Rhodendron Tree in the Park
The way out allowed me to see a lot more that on the way in.  This lovely rhodo tree is between the Park gates and Rolla Camp.  The Rhodos had begun to bloom.

Rhododendrons
The Rhodos are a brilliant, difficult to photograph, crimson. Unlike Sikkim where Rhodos are in many colours including pink , mauve and white, here they grow only crimson. All rhodo trees had buds, some had flowered.

Chandi Devi's Hut
Fondly known as 'Buddhi', Chandi Devi is the only human living permanently in the Park.  The hut is an absolute marvel of harmony with nature.  It is built on three levels, at the lowest is where her animals live, goats and sheep; also where she has four beehives inside to which the bees have access through tiny holes in the wall. In the middle is her living area and under the roof is her cooking area.

Chandi Devi emerges from her hut
She is a feisty lady, living on her own, she claims to be the most photographed denizen of the Park!!!  The forest department is now trying to relocate her outside the Park which she stoutly refuses.  Her children support her partially.  Notice the holes for the bees on the walls on either side of the lower door. See more pictures of her and the other wonderful people I met, in my blog here The People of Tirthan Valley

Hippo Rock
Just outside the gates, there is a large waterfall and bridge, in the water here is a rock that looks like a hippo asleep in the water.  There is a tiny shrine nearby which is revered by trekkers.

Rhododendrons viewed from Darakhali
About two kilometres from hippo rock is Darakhali mobile point. This is the highest point before the park, it has a wooden shelter and view.  It is supposed to be the last place before the park where one gets a mobile signal.  Notwithstanding this, there is a profusion of bird life and plants, including these rhodos here.

The Temple at Ropa
On the way out I could only photograph it from the window of the teahouse I was taking shelter in.  However on the way back it was open and clear.  This seemed relatively new, but as is the case in most temples here, it was locked and I could not go in.

Terraced fields and orchards on the hill side
The path all along follows the Tirthan River, sometimes low and crossing it just before the Park.  Since time immemorial water has been the draw for civilisation, it is no different here.  There are huts many hours walk from the nearest road head.  almost always the huts and villages have terraced fields where the harsh winters allow only one or sometimes two crops.

Mountain Eirie
I found huts perched at the most impossible heights and locations.  Considering that everything has to be carried on human backs, most houses are made of local resources.  However now one finds Steel and cement increasingly being used. Some houses are many hours walk  away. I saw a group of young ladies chatting and walking, each had a  sack of about 20 to 30kg of flour on their backs. This is a weekly chore.

Back at Gushaini
The walk out of the Park took us almost double the time as I stopped for a lot of photography which I had missed due to the rain on the way in. I reached Gushaini at five that evening, settled accounts with Lal Chand and the crew and bid them farewell, they had done me well. back to Raju's Hut and re-organising myself for the next day. mainly camera battery charging as there had been no charging in the park for three days.

Ambassador over here?
At Raju's Hut I found this old car bonnet next to the place I was staying, it was miles from the road and must have been carried here by hand. Incongruous but elegant it was a nice sight. 

Buzzy Bee
When the sun came out there were bees everywhere, different shapes and sizes.  Honey is a major produce here.

Apple Blossoms
Spring was here, as was evident in the blossoms, birds, bees and butterflies. When the sun came out the next day the plants were abuzz with activity.

Grey Bushchat 
There was a lot of bird life on the property, specially along the river where I saw many birds including a shy crested kingfisher.

Beehive in the bungalow
 At the place I was staying, there was a gap in the planks of the wall, bees laden with pollen had made this into a handy hive. 

The clouds descend
Each day, at around noon, the clouds would descend and there would be a passing shower.  The clouds lend a mystique and atmosphere to the mountains.

Pine Cones
The pines were flowering and cones were emerging to disgorge their seeds on the ground.Pine trees discourage any other plants from growing nearby, besides the pine resin discourages insects,  hence one finds very few birds or insects in a pine forest.

Snow Clad Mountains
The continuous rain made it very cold, and the higher reaches were covered in snow all the time that I was there. The snowfall in spring made the weather delightful when it was sunny, but very cold when it got cloudy or it rained.

Waterfall above Sai Ropa
It is a very pretty spot that is reached after a short up hill walk through a few villages.  The route to the waterfall was blocked by 

Anjali
She was all of six years old and very aware.  I met her mother, sister and her at a village a little distance away from a waterfall above Gahidar Village (near Sai Ropa). She was absolutely confident and a chatterbox, she walked with me for about an hour to the waterfall and back.  She of the impish smile and vanity in her hair. See my link The People of Tirthan Valley for more pictures of Anjali.

Anjali's House
set among verdant fields of wheat, there was terraced cultivation everywhere.

Lower Tirthan Valley
From Gushaini downstream, the banks of the Tirthan are burgeoning with 'resorts' and spas, I am told that people from the plains have leased land from the villagers and built huge resorts.  It is only a matter of time before the ubiquitous 'Volvo' rolls in. But that is another story.

The tranquility and solitude of the upper reaches of the Tirthan River are hard to find today.  An anonymous poem describes it beautifully:

"Serenity flows through the natural world
Listen and you can hear
the beating of your own heart
and deepening of your breath
in rhythm and connection with
the powerful tranquility of creation
that becomes fully alive in you
as you return to the roots of your being."

The People of Tirthan Valley

The Tirthan Valley
Solitude of the upper reaches 

The lower Tirthan Valley is slowly being strangled by the tourist rupee, ubiquitous resorts and hotels mushroom along the river. it is a moral dilemma, tourism begets income but with it also come also indiscriminate construction and garbage. But beyond Gushaini towards the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP), the area is only accessible only by foot and perhaps this inaccessibility to traffic still keeps this corner of paradise relatively untouched. Compared to our lives, local people live in comparative physical hardship. Long mountain trails mean walks of many hours to work and back to their lonely homes.  Carrying heavy loads, as everything is backpacked up to great heights, I saw ladies carry 35 kilograms of flour to villages three hours away. Harsh weather ranging from mild summer storms to bitter winters lashed by snow and wind. All these take a heavy toll on these people who age before their time. But irrespective of the hardship, the people in the interior are wonderful, always welcoming and ever smiling. This is a photo blog of some of these happy, dignified, trusting and warm people.

Lalchand guided me for three days.  
Young and agile as a mountain goat;
he carried a load almost his
own weight easily.He cheerfully helped
 me up ice-slippery mountain slopes
while going for Shilt Hut.
Ever resourceful, he "managed" a hut
instead of using the tent we carried in the park

Lalchand coaxing a fire from wet straw and wood in 
minutes from absolutely wet wood.  He fed me constantly. 
Wearing worn out keds and a faux leather jacket, 
he was comfortable in rain (more often) or shine.
His prized possession through the trip
were the pair of sun-glasses he found on the trail.  

Chandi Devi - Lady of the GHNP, has a hut between the
Park gates and Rolla camp.Here she emerges from 
the living area of her hut in the GHNP.
See the beehive holes on either side of the door
at the lowest level. Symbiosis with nature at its best,
she coexists with the bees and other animals, each giving the 
other something.

  

Stiff at first, Chandi Devi was a feisty lady
with a great sense of humour. The only inhabitant of the Park,
living alone in the hut by the side of the path, she is almost
 entirely self sufficient. She has children and grandchildren
who visit and supply her, but she chooses to live alone.
Reticent at first, she stood stiltedly for a photograph,
then as I got her chatting, she spoke animatedly
about the leopard that roared the previous night 
and other things.

I will not let the forest department move me out of here she says; 
She talks about how the forest department was trying to get her to move 
and why she was the most photographed denizen of the park!

Her hut has three levels, animals and beehives at the lowest, 
her living space in the middle and a small cooking space at the third tier.
 Unfortunately a camp site has come up around her abode,
an attempt, I think to dislodge her.

The Mother -  While walking up a steep forested hill
 I came upon a large dwelling. There was a single lady nearby,
she was very elegant and young. As was common among these
wonderful hill folk, in a very short while she got very chatty
 and extremely hospitable, offering me a chair and lunch
 (regrettably I declined). 

Wistfully, the Mother tells of
The pride of her life, her two sons, both toppers in school
and both studying in college. She ran in and got their photographs,
in which they were receiving a prize from a dignitary.  Her husband
 was a school teacher, walking two hours each way
five days a week to get to the school where he taught.

Anjali's younger sister whom I first stopped to photograph. 
A tiny little urchin, at first she was self conscious but  slowly she 
got used to me  finally giving me a bemused smile.

Anjali's mother seemed a harried lady, 
Anjali and her younger sister seemed great kids till the mother 
came, when they would behave spoilt and petulant.

Anjali -  An amazingly precocious girl of six,
I met her at a village on the way to the waterfall above Sai Ropa. 
Around her mother she was  spoilt and brattish but when alone with me
Anjali of the impish smile, never stopped chatting or laughing

striking a pose for me on the way, she spoke of her dreams and hopes,
her life today and what she intended it to become.  
She was acutely conscious of her looks and was
 constantly brushing and clipping her hair.

miss photogenic herself, Anjali was posing for me without
any trace of embarrassment. We parted good friends.

A grandmother of indeterminate age, this wonderful lady was coy,
aggressive and humourous in turn. I met her on a trail in the forest
behind where I was staying. She was laboriously limping her 
way to her children's house some distance away from hers.

Her face was richly wrinkled with each wrinkle probably a story to tell.
The harsh climate and hard life probably has taken a toll on her
as she seems to have aged beyond her years. But she retained
her wry sense of humour.

This gentleman was a bit redolent of some local liquor, however he took
me under his wing in a climb to the temple at Bandal Village.  Even
trying, unsuccessfully, to find the keys to the temple which was locked.

Very gentle and humorous, he explained various aspects
of the temple to me.  Also explaining the local custom of 
restricting access in most temples to people who were 
somehow connected to the construction of the temple.

I stopped to ask this lady directions, she had a delightful manner
and a bewitching smile. She willingly allowed me to photograph her
losing her awkwardness after a few moments.

She gave me directions and chatted awhile, but the effect of
 her hard life was evident in every crease on her face.  
While she was wrinkled on the exterior, there were no wrinkles
on her humour and patience with this city slicker with a camera.

A forest guard I met at a tea stall in Ropa,
 he had a very dignified manner. He allowed me to photograph him,
having a very pensive manner about him all the while. I ordered tea and 
the ubiquitous "Magi" noodles (which were actually
Wai Wai) for him too. Magi has become a generic term 
for noodles in the mountains.

Later I found that he was also moonlighting as a guide to a couple
 who were trekking in the park. Here he is washing utensils
 in the mist at Rolla. The couple he was supporting came dressed 
in biker studded boots and T-shirts to match, 
drank till late at night and left in the morning.

The Shepherd, was on the trail to GHNP, I requested him to gather
his sheep so that I might take a picture and he obliged. There were 
many such herders, what was remarkable is the care and concern with which 
they tended their sheep or goats. It was really touching.
 It was getting dark and I hastily took the pic.