Sunday 10 September 2023

Amboli in the Monsoon - Abode in the Clouds

The quietitude of Amboli in the monsoon is only disturbed by groups of nature lovers, mainly those looking for frogs and snakes to possibly photograph.  These groups have burgeoned but not to the point of being disturbing. I too had gone to see and  photograph the flora and fauna of Amboli, but I find that I was photographing the same flowers and animals repeatedly.  Besides, now I have grown more hydrophobic, I do not want to get wet in the rain.  The crowds drawn by the waterfalls are more intrusive, it seems that many people want to put their head under flowing water and the sellers with their kiosks are there to pander to every taste!!

A spiders web as we go on a night trail

Amboli in the monsoon is known for its herping, animals and flora. having been amidst this lush green environment four times earlier, on each trip I find a lot of change and now I have to contend with guides and fees and entrances to this and that.  Not many of us go there for the lesser-known sights in the rains. The sunsets amongst the clouds, a temple standing proud on the plateau and my personal favourite, the summer palace of the erstwhile Maharajas of Sawantwadi.


The summer residence of the Maharaja's of Sawantwadi.
Notice the basalt edges to the laterite construction. One of the stairs to the upper bedroom suites is visible. The laterite has moss
whereas the basalt does not have any.

Despite the fog and rain, on this trip I got a fleeting glimpse of the sunset amongst the lowering clouds, it hadn’t rained for a while but the sky was pregnant with rain.   Maybe the last four times I came here I was so intent on photographing the fauna that I did not look for the sun…

The sun sets at Amboli, 
See the majestic clouds and a watery sun

The temple atop the plateau.
Being on the top of gentle slopes, it is visible for great distances.

There is a plateau near Amboli and here the flora and fauna is plentiful and sometimes unique, perhaps that is why I and others give just a passing glance to the temple on top. 

The archway and bell at the entrance and the plateau in the background

As far as temples go, it is absolutely nondescript, a modern building used only on festivals I suspect.  What is unique is the location of this temple, visible from great distances, and it was a useful direction finder.

Branches beseeching heaven.

Everywhere in Amboli there is dense forest, very dense and since the laterite is close to the surface the trees are usually very stunted but the branches have interesting shapes. There is mostly old growth but some of it is new growth, the bushes at about waist height are where the snakes are.
Another view of the summer palace. Here one can clearly see that moss does not
grow on the basalt, making a neat mossy pattern on the façade of the building.
And now we come to my piece-de-resistance, the summer palace of the Maharajas of Sawantwadi, (I choose to call it a palace, it could be a mansion).  Sawantwadi, in the plains, is just an hour or so away from this lovely hill-station.
A lovely art-deco window.  It is intact because it
is sheltered from the violent monsoon. 
This is an art deco construction indicating that it was built in about early 1900’s.  The construction is mainly laterite covered in cement (or plaster?), with basalt on the outside edges and the portico.  Downstairs there is a foyer, sitting room, dining room and (guest?) bathroom, with servants’ quarters a discreet (bell call?) distance away. 
The embossed inscription above the main doorway
The main doorway opening onto the porch has “Jaishambhu” inscribed in Devnagari script. Upstairs there seem to be two bedroom suites, each with its own staircase from outside and one (grand?) staircase from inside. Replete with fireplaces and ornate decorations it was a cosy but stately home for the Maharajas.

The ruins of the state guest house/stables/servants quarters
 Some distance away seems to be the guest house, the stables, additional servant’s quarters. Sadly, the whole is in ruins and though I had been up to the first floor in the main house on earlier trips,  it is in such disrepair now that going up is very dangerous.

Like all things regal, it must have been really grand in its day, now but a sad legacy of what was.