Trek To Koraigarh Fort

Brig (retd.) Xerxes P Adrianwalla spends a day in the monsoons driving from Lonavala past the many waterfalls that line the drive to walk up to Koraigarh fort. He recommends it as a perfect family outing. It looms out of the mist like the prow of the Titanic; enigmatic and majestic, caped in the monsoon green so typical of the region. Koraigarh (or Korigarh), in the vicinity of Lonavala, is a day's nature walk, ideal for the monsoon season when it is a verdant green, swathed in chill mist at the top. From Lonavala towards Aamby Valley is a 20 km drive past innumerable waterfalls, till one reaches Shahpur (Shivpur) village where you park your car and pay a local shop keeper to look after it. From there it is an hour's easy, but fascinating, walk up the hill.
Around the base of the fort there is dense jungle. A path through it takes one to the steps of a fort. This jungle, with dense bamboo thickets, abounds in flora and a fascinating variety of birds and insects. The steps are steep but not very taxing for the average person. At about the halfway mark there are some caves and a view point from where one gets one's first panoramic view of Aamby Valley. There is also a small Ganesh Mandir. Another 15 minutes climb gets one to the top, via an ill-maintained entrance gate to the fort. Like most main entrances to a fort, this is parallel to the walls. The reason for this is to prevent the enemy from being able to gain momentum in a charge to storm the gates. Koraigarh is particularly devoid of fortifications, very few crenellations, loop holes and other trappings of the more formidable forts in Maharashtra. The fort is not a complex one, it does not appear to have been made to fight a determined enemy. It seems to be either a garrison fort from where distant rulers enforced their writ or a famine relief project. This is apparent from the rudimentary walls which seem only to supplement the natural scarp of the hill. Only at a few places is the fort wall more than just a basic parapet of stone. One such place is, understandably, astride the entrance. Here, there is a tower and more developed defenses. Inside the fort too, the construction is not elaborate. All one can now see are the ruins and the shape of the plinths, but these do not indicate any grand buildings or palaces. This reinforces the idea that being a garrison; the buildings were more utilitarian barracks. The temple of Korai Devi, after whom the fort is named, appears to have been built much after the fort. Inside the perimeter, the walk is a naturalist's delight. The ecology is centered around two ponds that are teeming with life. The most striking is the deafening bull frog chorus: thousands of frogs in curious symphony. The food chain was demonstrated by the presence of a large number of tiny water snakes, land crabs and a multitude of insects. A walk around the ramparts gives a wonderful panoramic view of the surrounding country, primarily Aamby Valley which lays siege to the fort from nearly three sides.Of course our lesser ecologically minded friends have left a trail of empty bottles and food packets all over in a place seemingly bereft of any garbage clearance system. The best time to visit is early in the morning when one has the place to one's self. Later in the day it can get quite crowded, especially on weekends. A monsoon walk in the mist and light rain is a truly recommended day out with the family. Photo Credit: Brig (retd.) Xerxes P Adrianwalla

Trek to Lohgarh Fort

Brig (retd.) Xerxes P Adrianwalla enjoys visiting the many splendid forts of Maharashtra. The monsoons add their own sense of adventure, mystery and romance to his tryst with history. Lohagarh, as the name suggests is an iron fort, soaked in history. The bastion stands aggressively amidst the Sahyadris near Lonavala. In the monsoon the fort is veiled in mist, brilliant green foliage lines the route and waterfalls punctuate the verdant hill sides; making a trek to the fort at this time a wonderful experience. The trek starts at Malavali railway station, when coming here by train; and Bhaje Village if arriving by road. The climb begins at Bhaje, the route being a rubble track to a plateau at the base of, and between the twin forts of Lohagarh � Visapur. To get here takes about an hour of easy climbing. At this point one needs to decide which fort to climb to. Lohagarh being better preserved, the easier climb is recommended.
Another small village, Lohadwadi, is situated in the depression between Lohagarh and Visapur, this is really a collection of vendors selling food and drink at the base of the fort. The climb up the steps is easy, with spectacular panoramic views along the way. The fort walls are in good repair and it is easy to discern the three layers of defenses marked by walls. The precision workmanship and fine finish of the stone blocks used in the fort walls are noteworthy, fitted together without cement or any other discernible adhesive. The steps are mostly in good shape, however at places they have eroded due to rain water and small water streams, and it is wise to be cautious at these places as the surfaces are slick with moss. Vichhu Kata. At the top there is not much by way of fortifications but the expanse is large and over interesting undulating terrain. The functionality of the walls and the absence of architectural embellishments within the fort perimeter indicates that these were austere fighting bastions and not fort-palaces as is common elsewhere in the country. The many ancient underground cisterns and the stepped bawdi (tank) used for water storage shows the meticulous planning of the ancient warriors to ensure they did not run out of water during a siege. A walk around the top shows a few ancient temples and dargas in varying states of repair and the breathtaking views in all directions. The vivid green panoramas of the rain soaked Sahyadris are truly beautiful. A walk to the Vinchu - Kata (scorpion's sting), so called because of its shape, rewards one with a grandstand view of Visagarh opposite. The Vinchu - Kata was an extension of the fort which was used as a look out, and as a line of defense in ancient days. During the monsoons due to the narrow, slippery path and strong winds, care is advised. During the rains there is a constant mist and fine drizzle at the top and one has to wait for gaps to enjoy the scenic beauty. While descending from the fort the slippery rocks can be tricky.Within a kilometer of Lohadgarh the climb to the twin fort of Visagarh begins. The history of these forts is intriguingly interlinked as they constantly changed hands and one fort acted as the counter to the other. The climb to Visagarh is more arduous and tricky, but more about it in another article. In the vicinity of the base village are the famous Bhaje Leni (caves), these are reached by a short climb up steps from Bhaje Village. The well preserved carving of these ancient Buddhist caves into the rock face of the mountain framed in waterfalls is definitely worth a visit.If one is energetic and fit it is possible to take in both the forts and the Bhaje Leni in a day, but for the less physically inclined, a walk up to Lohagad and a side track up to the caves would make for a lovely day out in the rains.