Off the beaten track in Satpura

“We all have forests on our minds. Forests unexplored, unending. Each one of us gets lost in the forest, every night, alone.” 
― Ursula K. Le Guin, The Wind's Twelve Quarters

Alas, it is difficult to get lost in a forest in India, there are few unexplored forests left and it is difficult to be alone. However the Satpura Tiger Reserve is one such forest where the crowds are less and the resorts are sensibly made to merge into ambient nature. Our welcome by a leopard by the side of the road as we drove in at night was a wonderful precursor of the two days ahead.  The haughty animal, disdainfully looked at us and slowly walked away into the jungle.  Here is where we let go of  our  daily electronic cocoons and freed ourselves to the joys of  simply being at one with nature.

The bridge and a hut at Reni Pani Resort...
...is a perfect example of being one with nature. Local material is used on the outside  to give a natural ambience to the dwellings and community areas. The passion of the owners in keeping this large resort in harmony with the jungle yet providing comfortable and modern amenities is evident in the smallest detail.  The lighting is dim, the construction has a forest flavour; we put wifi and TV on hold in this jungle retreat and enjoyed being there.  The resort plans a 'Satpura under canvas' hike which promises to be very different. The relative inaccessibility  of the this resort and park ironically, is what preserves them from commercialisation.

Birds at Reni Pani
are attracted by the water in the pool and the Arjuna tree nearby.  By sitting still and  silent in a shaded spot by the poolside with binoculars and camera, we saw a spectacle of birds. These Jerdon's Leaf Bird,  Spotted doves, Asian Paradise Flycatcher in brown phase and White-throated Kingfisher  were among the many birds we saw.  This is one of the few game parks where one is allowed to walk in the forest.  One has to be properly escorted by trained guides during such walks.  Reni Pani Resort has a detailed training program for its naturalists which enable them to lead such walks.

A Gaur comes to drink
at a waterhole, the patriarch, he gets the first  drink before the herd steps in and muddies the water.  The animal is muscular and majestic, irreverent of us watching and photographing  the herd.  It is very hot, it can go to 45 C, but we thought it is one of the best times to visit this forest as the heat separates the ogling easy tourists from the naturalist.  Water is scarce, and the animals come down to drink at the few waterholes that are still wet, this coupled with the scant leaf cover of dry vegetation makes for great photographic opportunities. 

Cubs and chicks abound
as this is spring and many animals and birds have young. We saw a mother Sloth Bear with two cubs clinging to her back at dusk and this young guy hitching a ride on his mother by day. This night-jar sat calmly  with her chicks while we photographed her. Drives in this Park are very enjoyable as one gets to see many animals and birds undisturbed by the herds of  vehicles that prevail in many of the other parks.  The fact that the fauna is not stressed by frequent visitors is plainly evident.  This park allows a mere 13 vehicles inside at a time, whereas in other parks it could be as many as 70.

Birds at the waterhole...
water is life here, literally.  Sitting still with patience at a waterhole is rewarding and allowed us to see many birds which we wouldn't otherwise  get a chance to see or photograph.  Of course it is important to respect the stress area of  these species driven to drink, despite what they perceive to be a risk to their lives.  The wild boar just would not drink while we were there, so we immediately moved away.  The naturalist with us, Erwin, is passionate about the local flora and fauna, apart from explaining what we see, he is very mindful of ensuring that we stay out of the circle of stress of the animals or birds.  Not only does he guide and protect us, but ensures we do not harm the fauna.  Reni Pani currently has a team of six naturalists.

As the sunsets over a waterhole
it is time to say goodbye to these wonderful denizens of the jungle.  While moving away from the waterholes too we saw many wonderful sights.
As the legendary photographer Ansel Adams said
“I believe the world is incomprehensibly beautiful — an endless prospect of magic and wonder.”
this is one of those places where we truly felt that deep joy of just being there.

Another Time Another Place

As the lyrics of Another time, another place go...
"Bright morning lights
Wipe the sleep from another day's eye"
Walking at Matheran and at Bhuigaon, one a hill station and another a sea side village, I see the common thread of grace and dignity running each day through the lives of local people.  The work is physically hard, monotonous, the returns are meagre and sometimes non-existent.  They do as routine what we do as 'adventure',  but they are always pleasant, courteous and industrious.

Done the washing
It is morning on a beach at Bhuigaon, the sun is up and it is breeze-less hot,  these ladies have just washed clothes and utensils, they walk home, chatting as they go, but they are not complaining. Early morning bikers have criss-crossed the beach with trails before the tide comes in to wipe the slate clean before yet another day.

The lady from below
This lady has carried a heavy load up to Matheran from a village in the plains below. She has walked nearly two hours vertically uphill and she does this every single day in the tourist season. She carries fodder for the horses that take well fed tourists for a  ride (sometimes literally).  What is matter of daily fact for this tough lady is a herculean adventure  for a group of hikers nearby, congratulating themselves at the climb they had done in over three hours,.

Maruti the milk carrier
He comes up the hill to Matheran each day, a climb of over 600 metres altitude over four kilometers, balancing about 40 litres of milk (that's forty kilos) and not spilling a drop.  He doesn't cry over spilled milk, and the climb is only getting here, after that he has yet to walk to market and supply the milk to buyers. I was told that there are 19 ways to climb up to Matheran and villagers from below come up each day. 

Perfect Balance
These ladies are off  to work at dawn.  It promises to be a hot and humid day, so they carry a  plastic bottle with water for the day.  Chatting as they go, their elegance and poise is visible in the ease with which they carry their head loads. Small loads or large ones, men and women carry them easily, the natural poise and gait this develops would teach finishing schools a thing or two.

Aged beyond his years
this fisherman balances a load on his shoulder as he heads towards his boat. He had had a neat haircut, wore clean clothes and was well turned out.  Despite the early hour I found the men and women well groomed before the day's labour. The close-to-shore fisherfolk, and I saw many women in the boats, get  just a few kilograms of fish after hours out in the broiling sun.

Off to market
these folk climb a 600 metre hill in under two hours with a huge load, then pause for a few moments to rest.  I saw a group of women and children come up, they were strung out based on their ability to climb, there were old matrons, I am guessing in their 60's, and young kids not even in their teens.   As each reached the top, she waited for those behind, finally when all had gathered at the top, they headed off into town on their business to sell fodder, act as tourist guides, or work in the many holiday homes in the hill station.  The lady in this picture hid her  walking stick in the bushes by the track,  to be picked up on her way back.

At the end of a day
Most of the tourists have gone,  waiting for a stray tourist, this cobbler enjoys a pensive moment at the end of the day.   Did he earn, did he not, who knows. These people at different places begin the day before dawn, work hard till sunset and sleep only to awake to the bright lights of another day. The lyrics of this song says it beautifully...
"At the end of the day
Some you win, some you don't
So I am glad that I'm here
With some friends that I know
Always there with a smile
Saying you are not alone"

Sojourn in the Sahyadris - Kalsubai

Kalsubai


“Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing.” 
― Barry Finlay, Kalsubai is the highest peak in Maharashtra, but that is not saying much; as at 1646 metres it is hardly the "Everest of Maharashtra" it is made out to be. Nevertheless it is an invigorating climb and though not a technical ascent it is steep and tests ones stamina. The panorama from the top make the arduous climb worth it.

Vishnu, the guide 
 There are many "how to" blogs on the net so I will refrain from a travelogue style, rather giving a potpourri of my experiences. Kalsubai is about an hour from Igatpuri and there are many ways of getting to Bari, the village at the base.  I drove from Igatpuri and taking a wrong turn finally ended up at Jahagirdarwadi, a few hundred metres short of Bari. It is possible to start climbing from here as well, so good luck for my guide Vishnu whom I found here, he was waiting and hoping for a stray tourist like me. I recommend that you engage a guide for two fundamental reasons, firstly you are contributing to the economy of relatively poor people; and secondly getting out of the cluster of huts in the village in the dark of early morning can be confusing. Besides, for a lone walker like me, Vishnu was great company.

The first temple about an hour into the walk
Start in the dark to avoid the heat of the day. I started at 5.30 am in January, it was pitch dark and I needed my head torch continuously  till the sun rose over the horizon at about 7.30 am.   Early in the morning at this time of the year it can be quite chill, specially before I started climbing.  I quickly warmed up into the walk and in a short while had to roll up my sleeves. 

Sunrise 
Due to the haze and hills on the horizon, the sun becomes visible a while after actual sunrise.Because I started early, I had finished the three hour climb (for me) before it became too warm. Once the sun is out it gets hot. Carry lots of water, as there is no natural source and the bottled water at the stalls en route are expensive.  I met families who had started on their "picnic" at about 10 am, I wonder how many reached the top in the heat later in the day?

The climb is steep
and there are iron ladders at three places to enable walkers to cross tricky rock walls. My walk-meter showed a climb of  900m in a little over a kilometer. Be that as it may, the steepness is evident in the thighs and calves on the return.  It took me three hours to reach the top and about two easy hours to return.  Being a Sunday, there were many people on the route, hundreds, and at some ladders one had to step aside to allow people to pass. 

Kalsubai, the top
is on a rocky promontory at the top of the hill. The rocky top is accessible by going up a steel ladder for about 20 metres.  Just before the final ladder, visible in this picture, there is a flat ground with many stalls selling food and drink.  The 'kanda bhajjia" were deliciously hot and tasty but the tea was insipid.  Most people stop for a snack here on their way down and on Sundays the crowd can be large. The flat ground around allows groups to gather and some to even camp for the night.

Kalsubai, the temple
is located at the apex, a tiny temple, but it has a flourishing economy of stalls selling "peda" and other pooja ingredients outside. During various auspicious festivals, I am told, crowds throng here for the pooja.  In this picture one can see some of the number of walkers at the top.  Some trekkers come the previous evening and camp here and around, or start climbing at 2 am so as to be at the top at sunrise.  The views from the top are breathtaking and despite the haze one can see the range of hills around. The view is enhanced by the long shadows of the hills in the range in the early morning.   

A hungry monkey
has two fruit,  one gripped in each set of paws.  Trekkers feed the monkeys who have become bold and aggressive, grabbing anything loose.  My guide told me that unattended rucksacks and water bottles  are often picked up by these animals. The route is dry and dusty at this time of the year; a fine dust is kicked up by those passing and many stall operators are seen covering their nose and mouth.

Stalls everywhere...
Most flat spaces have a local selling something, from the ubiquitous nimbu pani and  guava grown in home gardens, to the more commercial bhajjia and packeted eatables. The route is lined with commerce, a cloth spread on the ground, a table with the makings of nimbu pani and well covered stalls with tables and chairs. There is someone selling something somewhere.

And finally...
having been up and down, I drove off to a wayside dhaba and treated myself to the most delicious hot and fresh tandoori rotis and tadka dal.  The resort town of Bhandardara with its famous dam and waterfall is nearby and the route is lined with eating places big and small. Climbing is hungry business and so till my next walk I leave you with this sage advice:

“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.”  -Edward Whymper

At Peace in Igatpuri - Rambling Through an Old Railway Cemetery

The cemetery is an open space among the ruins, covered in winter with violets and daisies. It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place.”

― Percy Bysshe Shelley

The poet could well be describing this Cemetery in Igatpuri which is indeed a quiet place, shaded by the trees in an old Churchyard. Here, lie at peace, railwaymen, soldiers,other British officials and their families.  Each had a life, long or sometimes short; a life, young or old; each with a story to tell; each shaping the "Empire" in a way big or small.  Complete lives reduced to a few passionate words on a tombstone. The cracked stones only hinting  of exciting or mundane lives.

The oldest Stone
 I could find, dated 1868 for an unknown Ann who was just 31 years of age when she died.  She was the "deeply regretted wife of...". This is just three years after the Thal ghat section was opened, in 1865.  The church where this cemetery is located was established in 1892, a full 24 years later.  The ages of the deceased on these plaques and old gravestones elsewhere indicate that life expectancy was very uncertain in those days. Less developed medicine, war, pestilence and wild animals all contributed to premature death! 

The Church and the sign
 that drew me to the church. The church is under much needed repair and the outer eaves are completed dismantled, giving the place a feel of disrepair.  This church has stood for over 125 years and the wooden roof of the main building seems good for another century. In the verandah there is an intact coffin cart, probably still in use.  It took me a while to figure out its purpose, but the handles and tow bar gave me a hint. It has a slide with latch for the coffin and spring suspension (lest we jolt the dead awake!)

The War Memorial 
and some soldiers graves mark what appears to be a First World War memorial. These soldiers were rather far from the WWI battlefields of Europe and so are likely to have died of wounds or disease in the garrison battalion. Soldiers were stationed at most hubs to maintain colonial order and protect assets of the Empire, in this case the all important railway.

The important railway influence 
is reflected in much of the cemetery. Igatpuri was a crucial link in the GIPR, being at the top of the then difficult Thal Ghat.  The railways were the steel web that bound the Empire,  a vital form of communication before  road and air became ubiquitous.The rail encircling this cross has obviously been made in some railway workshop to honour an important person. Buried here are  railway engineers, engine drivers, guards, "ghat keepers", "ghaut driver"  and Public Way Inspectors (PWI).  

Then there the families of the railway staff, ...
 The women who accompanied their menfolk out to these remote places had a difficult existence, not used to the heat, hard life and loneliness of mofussil  they often predeceased their husbands. Some of them became useful, but most simply adhered to an almost stifling code of Victorian social conduct and withered away. Before the Suez Canal opened in 1869, it could take four to six months to sail from Britain to India, so few families came out.

There are elaborate stones,
here's one with a floral tribute carved in bas relief in marble. It has withstood the ravages of time and the carving is largely intact even if the grave below is disheveled. 

There are ornate stones,
this one has a dove with a floral theme, all indicating a peaceful hereafter. Maybe more peaceful than their temporal lives in small towns like Igatpuri, specially in the early days. 

There are stones for children
 resting here, this particularly moving carving depicts a child reaching for glory of God.  Children had a particularly tough time, their childhood exuberance was tied by the strict mores of the time which governed whom they could play with, when and how. Child mortality was high due to the lack of hygiene and high humidity of places like Igatpuri. When the children came of school going age they were sent to England if the parents could afford it, else to one of the schools in the hills.

Decrepit stones,
Not all stones are well made or kept, In fact most of the graves are in serious want of attention. The stones range from the elaborate and ornate to the simple and at many places just a square of bricks marks the spot of interment.  

Plaques on the inside church walls 
mark the memory of more important and wealthy personages.  In this case a railway engineer who was also a Lt-Col. The church is a potpourri of the old and modern, it has a lovely old wood barrel vaulted  ceiling and beams.

A parrot embellishes
a column,  maybe a more knowledgeable study would reveal the different social significance and style of decorations through the 125 years. However this church seems to have garnered funds to renovate and keep the building in a decent state of repair.  The adjoining cemetery is however not in as good condition.

In eternal rest
each stone marks a life, as the life has been snuffed out and forgotten in the shroud of time, so has the grave.

"Earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust,"
 phrase from the funeral service in the Book of Common Prayer

West Highland Way Trail in Scotland

And, too, the heavy trudge of boots
which used to stamp upon it in pursuit
of sheep or cattle. Or else stumbling back
homewards just before the black 
of night consumed the borders of a bog
stretching wide before soles, the perils of a loch,
perhaps, where a neighbour drowned. Sphagnum moss, 
above all, stores the footsteps of those who are now lost,
those residents and denizens of moor
for whom moss feels an absence, their drum of feet
no longer pounding desolation like a heartbeat any more. 

----From a poem by Donald S Murray

The West Highland Way
is an iconic walk in Scotland steeped in history with constantly changing beautiful scenery; it is also the longest in Scotland, starting in Milngavie, a suburb of Glasgow and ending at 96 miles (154 km) muscle aching, feet hurting, but proud, in Fort William. The trail meanders along some of the most breath taking terrain in the Highlands, taking in varied landscapes of lochs, highlands, forests, bubbling burns and waterfalls.

A well marked trail
where convoluted turns are marked by posts bearing the logo of the West Highland Way, a thistle within parenthesis.  Most of the Way is along old military roads, also known as General Wade's Military Roads.  These were made in the 18th Century to move troops to quell local rebellion. The roads are well defined but rough and may result in blisters or a sprained ankle if one is not careful.There are many climbs and descents and one of the more rugged stretches is the one that traverses the Devil's Staircase - an 850ft (259m) climb that is written about ominously in most blogs.  Though it's a sustained zig-zag climb, it's not nearly as brutal as the name would suggest.

Loch Lomond- the Northern end

The trail is doable by any reasonably fit person, our group ranged from 40's to a sprightly gentleman of 80, all of whom did the walk.  Walkers come in all shapes and sizes, greyhounds at a mile eating trot eager to "bag" the trail, walk fast, listen to music, tick off the box as trail done and breathlessly talking of when they “conquered so-and-so trail”.  At the other end are sloths like me who waddle along smelling the roses, taking a zillion photographs and simply absorb being there. In between these extremes are runners, cyclists and campers. The trail has been run in less than 14 hours but the usual is what we did, an easy 7 days of walking averaging 22 km per day.  The trail can be done in sections separately or continuously as we did, choose what suits you best.

Under the Railway

There are various ways to do the walk, we did it supported by an organiser, Thistle Trekking who did everything but hike for us. They were flawless in that they booked accommodation and moved heavy baggage ahead, provided guides and took care of all the logistics. So all we had to do was walk with a daypack. The other extreme way of doing the Way is camping in designated areas and completely self-supported. Along the trail we saw many campers carrying massive loads and waltzing along, setting up at the many beautiful campsites along the Way. 

The iconic Bridge of Orchy

Along the Way we walked by spectacular scenery, the desolate Rannoch Moor, the huge Loch Lomond, imposing Glencoe Mountains, the historic Bridge of Orchy.

 It is also a Way along some of the historic places of the Highlands. Rob Roy’s cave on Loch Lomond, the site of many battles and the lore associated with them, St Fillan’s Priory and swords of legend.  There are informative boards at these places describing historical events.

Clad for lashing rain

The weather fluctuates as much as the terrain does, from a bone chilling cold wind to an energy sapping hot sun and back again, all in a few hours. Pray that the weather smiles else these can be a miserable and wet 7 days. We were lucky in having only one day of  heavy rain, on this day the wind and rain combined to make it very wet. The other cloudy and cool days were great walking days. We dressed in layers taking off and putting on with almost irritating regularity.  

An interesting section of Trail

Details of equipment required and suggested itineraries have been described in various blogs and articles on the net. So I will only emphasise what I feel is important, nay, vital for an enjoyable walk. If it interests you read my earlier blog on appropriate gear titled The Fashionate Trekker.  The military roads are broad and well defined, but uneven and roughly cobbled stone and inappropriate footwear can result in very painful soles and blisters.   Comfortable walking/hiking boots well broken in and water-resistant, (emphatically do not wear athletic or soft soled running shoes) and appropriate socks,  will make for happy feet, and happy feet are essential for this walk. Good rain gear and comfortable daypack come next. The midges in summer can drive you crazy, literally, so a headnet and/or repellent is a must.

Flora and Fauna
The heavy rainfall, rugged hill sides, lack of succulent feed, allows for little flora and fauna on the hillsides.  Thistle in a variety of shapes and sizes, grows everywhere. The Scottish cow is quite unusual in that it has a fringe across the face, possibly defence against the maddening midges. Like this little Robin redbreast, birds are mainly near civilisation, cadging a morsel and protection from the elements.This is a very wet area and seeds possibly left by a bird on a fence-post have germinated into these ferns and a flower; while a cow in the background is, unusually, kneeling and feeding.  I saw signposts at many places indicating the habitation of deer, but did not see a single one.  The guide told us said that in summer the deer go into the higher reaches to feed and escape the ubiquitous midges.

A bridge in a lush green forestThe streams always had little wooden or stone bridges such as these. The terrain we walked through was immensely varied, the lush, thick, green forests where trees and boulders are covered in moss, with many waterfalls and streams, to ..... 

...The vast flat emptiness of Rannoch Moor
Said to be one of the largest Moors in these parts, it follows a long glen between the highlands. It is very wet and boggy, making it very inhospitable and precluding any habitation.  I carried a camera to supplement the snapshots I took on my mobile when it was wet.  When trekking  with a camera I always make sure I have a comfortable means of carry, this time a cross shoulder strap that I had made myself; waterproof cover, and I mean "water proof" as water can quickly kill a camera. I had a spare battery and memory card and just one lens, a  Fuji 18-55mm kit lens. Simply remember, each additional gram on a long trek is going to seem like a kilo.  For a more detailed blog on trekking with a camera see my earlier blog The Trekking Photographer 

In all thy moods I love thee,

    In sunshine and in storm;

Lochaber of the towering bens,

    Outlined in rugged form.

Here proud Ben Nevis, snowy crowned,

    Rests throned amidst the clouds;

There Lochy's deep and silvery wave,

    A royal city shrouds;

---From a poem by Alice MacDonell